🏰 The Sassi: A Labyrinth of History
The heart of Matera lies in its two main districts, the Sasso Caveoso and the Sasso Barisano, which together form the ancient center. Exploring these districts is like stepping back in time.
- Sasso Caveoso: This southern district remains the most authentic and historically preserved part of Matera. Here, you'll find many cave dwellings (case grotta) left largely in their original state. It's the best place to understand the harsh reality of life in Matera before the 1950s relocation. Don't miss the Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario, a museum that recreates a typical peasant household.
- Sasso Barisano: The northern district is livelier and more commercially developed. Many of the cave dwellings here have been beautifully restored and converted into restaurants, artisan shops, and luxury hotels. It's the perfect area for dinner and evening strolls.
- Civita: separating the two Sassi is the Civita, the oldest part of the city, perched on a high rock. It houses the majestic Matera Cathedral (Duomo), built in the 13th century in Apulian Romanesque style. The view from the piazza in front of the cathedral is breathtaking.
⛪ Rock Churches (Chiese Rupestri)
Matera is famous for its rupestrian churches—places of worship carved directly into the rock. There are over 150 of them in the area, many featuring ancient Byzantine frescoes.
- Santa Maria de Idris: Dominating the Sasso Caveoso from a large limestone crag, this church offers commanding views of the city. Inside, you can see faded but beautiful frescoes dating back to the 12th century.
- Santa Lucia alle Malve: Located nearby, this was the first female monastic settlement of the Benedictine Order in Matera. It contains some of the best-preserved frescoes in the city, depicting the Nursing Madonna and St. Michael the Archangel.
- San Pietro Barisano: The largest rock church in the Sassi, featuring a facade built over the rock and extensive underground chambers used for draining corpses (a macabre but fascinating burial practice).
- Crypt of Original Sin (Cripta del Peccato Originale): Often called the "Sistine Chapel of Rupestrian Art," this cave church is located a few kilometers outside the city. It features stunning 9th-century frescoes and requires a reservation to visit.
🌊 The Palombaro Lungo: An Underground Cathedral of Water
One of Matera's most impressive engineering feats is hidden beneath the main square, Piazza Vittorio Veneto. The Palombaro Lungo is a massive underground cistern carved by hand to store water for the city. With its soaring 15-meter high arches and boat-navigable waters, it resembles a subterranean cathedral. A guided tour here is essential to understand how the people of Matera harvested every drop of rainwater to survive in this arid landscape.
🍽️ Where to Eat: A Culinary Journey
Basilicata's cuisine is humble yet rich in flavor, known as cucina povera. Matera is famous for its bread (Pane di Matera), which has a thick, crunchy crust and a soft, yellow interior.
- Dimora Ulmo: For a fine dining experience in a restored palazzo with a terrace overlooking the Sassi. Try their modern interpretation of baccalà (salt cod).
- Baccanti: Set inside a series of caves, this restaurant offers an incredibly atmospheric setting. Their crafpiata (a traditional bean soup) is a must-try.
- Panificio Paoluccio: Visit this historic bakery to buy fresh Pane di Matera IGP. It's perfect for a picnic in the Murgia park.
- Area 8: A trendy spot in the Sasso Barisano that functions as a production agency by day and a cocktail bar/bistro by night. Great for an aperitivo.
🛏️ Where to Stay: Sleeping in a Cave
Staying in a renovated cave hotel is the quintessential Matera experience. These "grotta" hotels range from rustic to ultra-luxury.
- Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita: The pioneer of the "diffused hotel" concept. The rooms are sparsely furnished with candlelight and simple artifacts to maintain historic authenticity while offering 5-star comfort.
- Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel & SPA: A modern take on the cave experience, featuring a stunning underground pool carved into the rock.
- Locanda di San Martino: A more affordable option that includes access to "Thermae," an ancient Roman-style bath complex located within the hotel's caves.
🚶 Hiking and Nature: The Murgia Materana Park
Directly across the ravine from the Sassi lies the Murgia Materana Park. A hanging bridge (Tibetan bridge) connects the Sassi to the park, allowing for a fantastic hike. The park is dotted with prehistoric caves and rock churches. The hike offers the classic panoramic view of Matera that you see on postcards. Be sure to wear sturdy shoes and bring water, especially in summer.
📅 Seasonal Guide & Events
Matera is a year-round destination, but each season offers a different vibe.
- Spring (April-June): The best time to visit. The Murgia park is full of wildflowers, and the temperature is perfect for hiking.
- Summer (July-August): Can be very hot (up to 40°C). However, the city comes alive at night with the Festival Duni (classical music) and other open-air events.
- Autumn (September-October): Pleasant weather and harvest season. Great for foodies interested in local wine and olive oil.
- Winter (December-January): Cold and potentially snowy, but magical. The Presepe Vivente (Living Nativity) in December is world-famous, with hundreds of actors recreating biblical scenes throughout the Sassi.
🗺️ Getting There and Around
- By Air: Fly into Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport (BRI). From there, take the Pugliairbus shuttle directly to Matera (approx. 1 hour).
- By Train: Note that Matera is not connected to the national Trenitalia network. You must take the private Ferrovie Appulo Lucane (FAL) narrow-gauge train from Bari Centrale. The scenic ride takes about 1.5 hours.
- By Car: Renting a car gives you freedom to explore Basilicata, but you cannot drive in the Sassi (ZTL zone). Park in one of the designated garages in the modern city (e.g., Via Saragat) and take a shuttle or walk down.
💎 Hidden Gems & Secret Tips
- MUSMA (Museum of Contemporary Sculpture): Located in the 17th-century Palazzo Pomarici, this is the only "cave museum" in the world dedicated to sculpture. It perfectly blends modern art with ancient rock environments.
- Cava del Sole: An abandoned 18th-century tuff quarry transformed into an open-air auditorium. Check if there are concerts during your visit.
- Vicolo Cieco: Wander without a map. The joy of Matera is getting lost in the labyrinth of stairs and alleys (vicinati) where neighbors used to socialize.
