Three Days in Paris: An Honest Guide
Paris is the most visited city on earth. It is also one of the most misunderstood. First-timers often arrive expecting romance and leave slightly overwhelmed by the scale, the pace, and the occasional Parisian brusqueness. The trick is simple: slow down, eat well, walk more than you plan to, and approach the French on their own terms.
Three days is a reasonable foundation. You wonât see everything â that would take months â but youâll understand why people come back every year.
Practical Basics
Transport: The Paris MĂ©tro is excellent, affordable, and covers all major attractions. Buy a carnet (10-ticket booklet) or a Navigo Semaine weekly pass (âŹ30, valid MondayâSunday, all zones). Alternatively, VĂ©libâ cycle-share stations are everywhere.
Tipping: Not mandatory. Round up at cafĂ©s (leave âŹ0.50â1); at restaurants, âŹ2â5 for good service is generous. Do not tip Parisian taxi drivers unless you particularly want to.
At the cafĂ©: Stand at the bar (comptoir) for cheaper prices. Sitting outside (terrasse) costs more. Sitting inside (salle) costs slightly less than terrasse. Water (une carafe dâeau) is free and you are entitled to it by law.
Language: Learn bonjour, merci, sâil vous plaĂźt, pardon, and une table pour deux, sâil vous plaĂźt. French people respond dramatically better to an attempted French greeting than an immediate English launch. It is a matter of respect, not ability.
Day 1: The Right Bank â Icons and Islands
Morning: Notre-Dame & Ăle de la CitĂ©
- Notre-Dame de Paris: Closed for most of the post-fire period but now fully reopened after the extraordinary 2024â2025 restoration. The interior is more beautiful than before. Arrive early; queues build significantly by 10am.
- Sainte-Chapelle: One block away. The most extraordinary stained-glass windows in existence â 15 panels of floor-to-ceiling 13th-century glass. Chronically under-visited compared to nearby attractions. Book online.
- Ăle Saint-Louis: The smaller island east of Ăle de la CitĂ©. Quiet, beautiful, lined with hĂŽtels particuliers. The ice cream at Berthillon is legendary â queue is worth it.
Afternoon: The Marais
- Centre Pompidou: Modern and contemporary art museum. The building itself â inside out, with all structure and pipes on the exterior â is the first shock. The collection, particularly its early 20th-century works, is among Europeâs finest. The rooftop view of Paris from the escalators is free.
- Place des Vosges: Parisâs oldest planned square (1612). Arcaded walkways, a formal garden, Victor Hugoâs house (free museum). One of the genuinely great urban spaces.
- Marais neighbourhood: The old Jewish quarter and now Parisâs most fashionable district. Excellent falafel on Rue des Rosiers, designer boutiques on Rue Vieille du Temple, gallery upon gallery throughout.
Evening: Dinner in the Marais
Book ahead at any arrondissement brasserie for a proper French dinner: steak frites, duck confit, crĂšme brĂ»lĂ©e, a half-carafe of CĂŽtes du RhĂŽne. Budget âŹ30â45/person with wine.
Alternatively: the best Parisian meal you can have for under âŹ15 is a jambon-beurre baguette from a good boulangerie, eaten on a Seine embankment at sunset. This is not a lesser option.
Day 2: The Louvre, Tuileries & Left Bank
Morning: The Louvre
The worldâs largest art museum contains 380,000 objects and is impossible to see in a day. Approach it strategically:
- Book online for a timed entry slot to avoid the 2-hour queue.
- Avoid Mondays and Wednesdays (highest traffic days post-weekend and after closure on Tuesdays).
- Have a plan: The Mona Lisa is smaller than expected and viewed from behind a barrier through crowds. See it, photograph it, then spend your real time in the adjacent Italian Renaissance galleries, or the Greek Antiquities, or the magnificent Winged Victory of Samothrace.
- Allow 3 hours minimum.
Afternoon: Tuileries, Place de la Concorde & Champs-ĂlysĂ©es
- Jardins des Tuileries: Walk the formal garden between the Louvre and the Place de la Concorde.
- Place de la Concorde: The vast square where Louis XVI was guillotined. The Egyptian obelisk in the centre is from Luxor (1836).
- Champs-ĂlysĂ©es â Arc de Triomphe: Walk the grand boulevard. It is, admittedly, mostly chain stores and tourist restaurants now â but the scale and the visual termination at the Arc is undeniable. Climb the Arc (book online) for the best birdâs-eye view of the 12 radiating avenues.
Evening: Left Bank Dinner
Cross to the Left Bank (Rive Gauche). Saint-Germain-des-Prés: Café de Flore (famous, expensive, perfectly acceptable croissant and café noisette), or Le Procope (the oldest café in Paris, since 1686).
Dinner: the streets around Rue de Buci and Rue Saint-AndrĂ© des Arts have dozens of bistros. Try steak tartare â itâs a brave first move, but Paris is the place for it.
Day 3: Montmartre & Eiffel Tower
Morning: Montmartre
- SacrĂ©-CĆur: The white Romano-Byzantine basilica on the hill above the city. The climb is steep; take the funicular (one MĂ©tro ticket) if needed. The view from the esplanade is among the best in Paris.
- Place du Tertre: The famous square where artists work and sell â touristy, but atmospheric. The surrounding streets of Montmartre are where the real neighbourhood is.
- Moulin Rouge: The exterior is on Bd. de Clichy. Shows are expensive (âŹ100â150) but the institution is genuine â this is where can-can dancing originated.
- Musée de Montmartre: Renoir, Utrillo, and other artists who lived in Montmartre in its bohemian heyday. Small, beautiful, quiet.
Afternoon: Eiffel Tower & Champ de Mars
- Eiffel Tower: Book online weeks in advance for summit access. Queue on the day if you only want the first level (less impressive, but still). The best view of the tower is from the Trocadéro esplanade across the Seine.
- Champ de Mars: The park below the tower. Buy a bottle of wine, a baguette, some cheese from a nearby épicerie, and sit on the grass watching the tower. This is the Parisian way.
Evening: Sunset from Montparnasse Tower (Optional)
The Montparnasse Tower is ugly from the outside. But the observation deck on the 59th floor has the single best panoramic view in Paris â including the Eiffel Tower, which is absent from the view if youâre on the tower itself. Book for sunset.
What to Eat in Paris
Croissant: Only acceptable from a boulangerie. A good one is buttery, laminated, and slightly crispy outside. It should shatter when you bite it. The best are from Maison Kayser, Du Pain et des Idées, or Cyril Lignac.
Steak frites: The national bistro dish. Ask for saignant (rare) â French beef is good enough to merit it. The frites should be thin, crispy, and plentiful.
Fromage: Every French supermarket has a cheese counter that would embarrass most specialist shops elsewhere. Saint-Nectaire, ComtĂ©, Camembert, Brie de Meaux â buy a selection, add a baguette, find a park.
Escargots: Garlic butter snails. Intimidating. Delicious. Order them.
Macarons: From Ladurée or Pierre Hermé only. All others are an approximation.
Paris is a city that rewards attention. The more carefully you look â at the Haussmann façades, the zinc cafĂ© counters, the way people carry their bread, the particular shade of evening light on the Seine â the better it becomes.